Arneis

Arneis is one of those grapes that feels like a local secret that briefly flirted with extinction and came back wiser. Its nickname—“little rascal”—isn’t marketing poetry. It’s a grower’s sigh. Arneis is temperamental in the vineyard, low-yielding, and disease-prone, yet when treated with patience it produces wines of quiet confidence rather than theatrical flair.

Its roots are firmly planted in Piedmont, specifically the Roero hills north of the Tanaro River. Written records reach back to the 15th century, and for much of its history Arneis played a supporting role rather than taking center stage. It was often blended into Nebbiolo-based reds, not to add aroma or weight, but to make the tannins more approachable—think of it as a diplomatic envoy in grape form.

The mid-20th century was not kind to Arneis. As Piedmont focused on more profitable or prestigious varieties, Arneis plantings dwindled dangerously. The revival came in the late 20th century, driven by a handful of producers who realized that Arneis, vinified on its own, could express Roero’s sandy soils with striking clarity. That rediscovery ultimately led to Roero Arneis DOCG, giving the grape its long-overdue solo act.

Roero’s terroir is crucial to understanding Arneis. The sandy, well-drained soils and continental climate allow the grape to ripen fully without losing its essential freshness. Compared to neighboring Langhe, the wines tend to be lighter on their feet, more aromatic, and less overtly structured. Small plantings exist elsewhere in Piedmont and beyond, but Roero remains its philosophical and practical homeland.

In the vineyard, Arneis demands attention. It ripens early, typically harvested in September, and produces compact clusters of small berries. Its susceptibility to disease and tendency toward low yields are the price paid for quality. When pushed too hard, it becomes bland; when carefully farmed, it becomes expressive and precise.

In the glass, Arneis sits in an appealing middle ground. It is neither razor-sharp nor overtly rich. Aromas lean toward white flowers, pear, citrus, and stone fruit, often with a subtle herbal edge. On the palate, lively acidity supports flavors of green apple, apricot, and sometimes a faint bitter-almond note on the finish—a gentle reminder of its Piedmontese accent. Alcohol is typically moderate, reinforcing its role as a food-friendly, table-first wine.

Texturally, Arneis often surprises. Many examples have a slight phenolic grip or soft weight that gives them more presence than the aromatics alone suggest. This makes them excellent companions to seafood, poultry, creamy pastas, and vegetable-based dishes where subtlety matters more than brute force.

Arneis doesn’t shout. It doesn’t chase trends. It rewards attention rather than demanding it. In a wine world increasingly fascinated by freshness, restraint, and regional identity, this former blending grape has finally earned the right to be exactly what it always was—distinctly itself.