Pecorino

Pecorino is a satisfying case study in vinous resurrection: a grape that nearly vanished, then came back sharper, louder, and more confident than before. It is a white grape despite sharing its name with a well-known sheep’s-milk cheese, and the overlap is a running joke among Italian wine drinkers, who sometimes pour the wine alongside the cheese.

Its origins sit in central Italy, most convincingly in the Marche, though Abruzzo has an equally strong historical claim. Within the Marche, the grape is thought to have grown for centuries in the Sibillini mountain foothills, the rugged hill country that rises behind Ascoli Piceno. For centuries, Pecorino lingered on the margins, valued locally but ignored commercially. By the mid-20th century it was close to extinction, largely because it ripens early and produces relatively low yields—traits that once made it inconvenient rather than fashionable. Its rediscovery is often credited to a handful of growers who found surviving vines in abandoned vineyards in the 1980s, and the first modern bottlings followed soon after. Late-20th-century growers, reassessing indigenous varieties with fresh eyes, realized those “flaws” were actually virtues.

Today, Pecorino is most closely associated with the Marche, especially around Ascoli Piceno, and with Abruzzo, where it has become one of the region’s most distinctive white grapes. Offida Pecorino DOCG in the Marche and Abruzzo’s Terre di Chieti and Colline Teramane areas are among its best-known homes, and Offida Pecorino was granted DOCG status in 2011. Smaller plantings also exist in Umbria and Lazio, and adventurous growers have taken it abroad to places like Australia and the United States, though it remains unmistakably Italian in personality. Tuscany’s Maremma coast has also embraced it, where it is often bottled as an IGT varietal.

The name almost certainly comes from pecora, the Italian word for sheep. Local lore suggests flocks grazed among the vines during seasonal migrations, happily munching on the grapes. This seasonal movement of flocks between mountain and lowland pastures is known as transhumance, and it shaped much of the pastoral culture of the central Apennines. Whether strictly true or not, the name captures the grape’s pastoral roots and its deep tie to the landscape.

In the vineyard, Pecorino is vigorous and surprisingly resilient. It shows good resistance to disease and adapts well to a range of soils, particularly well-drained sites in hilly or coastal areas. Vineyards at higher elevations tend to produce the most aromatic and fresh versions, since cooler nights help preserve acidity and perfume. The clusters are compact, with small, thin-skinned berries, which helps explain the grape’s aromatic intensity. It ripens early yet manages to retain acidity, a combination that immediately sets it apart from many warm-climate white varieties. Its early ripening means harvest often begins in late August or early September, ahead of most of its neighbors.

In wine form, Pecorino is anything but shy. The color is usually pale straw with greenish highlights. Aromatically, it is expressive and layered, offering floral notes like acacia and chamomile, bright citrus, and sometimes a hint of tropical fruit. Sage, thyme, and white peach are also frequent descriptors, and the grape is sometimes compared to a more textured, savory cousin of Sauvignon Blanc. There is often an herbal or saline edge that adds intrigue rather than softness.

On the palate, Pecorino delivers a compelling tension: crisp acidity wrapped in a surprisingly full-bodied frame. Flavors of green apple, pear, peach, citrus zest, and herbs sit atop a distinctly mineral backbone. A faint bitter almond note on the finish is common and adds to its food-friendly character. Alcohol levels tend to be moderate to high, giving the wine weight without heaviness when handled well. Many bottles reach 13 to 14 percent alcohol, yet the high acidity keeps them feeling lively.

Although many Pecorino wines are made for early enjoyment, the better examples show real aging potential. Producers who use lees contact or a short spell in larger neutral vessels often make wines that hold up well for five years or more. With time, they can gain texture and complexity, trading some of their youthful brightness for deeper, more savory notes. Honey, dried herbs, and toasted almond are typical signs of maturity.

In summary, Pecorino is no longer a curiosity rescued from the past but a modern statement grape with ancient roots. It offers freshness without fragility, structure without dullness, and a strong sense of place. At the table, it pairs well with grilled fish, seafood pasta, fritto misto, risotto, and, fittingly, fresh pecorino cheese. Its revival is a reminder that forgotten varieties often disappear not because they lack quality, but because the world wasn’t ready for them yet